Mrf9180 Keeps blowing!!

[ronald001]

40 Watt is for CDMA operation, which is 1.5 MHz wide... FM is 150Khz wide...

I got an original one here: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/32874446 ... hweb201603_


DutchRF shop is selling genuine 9180's / 21 Euros :https://dutchrfshop.nl/nl/hoger-dan-150 ... f9180.html
HF-electronics is selling them for 19 euros: https://www.hf-electronics.nl/MRF9180

[BriansBrain]

So If we all avoid the number 0 with a line through it. we will get all the power. I'll attempt to get one of these.

*Please NOTE*
My findings are...
The fake one that only give 20W output have a production number under MRF9180 of >>> RR1627E

AIICKING - MRF9180 - RR1627E-S.jpg

[Electronically]

So If we all avoid the number 0 with a line through it. we will get all the power. I'll attempt to get one of these.

*Please NOTE*
My findings are...
The fake one that only give 20W output have a production number under MRF9180 of >>> RR1627E

AIICKING - MRF9180 - RR1627E-S.jpg

OK. When I do get this. I'm going to run a test at 21v, 7 or 8 amps, 3 watts driving the amp.

Sent from my AMN-LX9 using Tapatalk

[Electronically]

40 Watt is for CDMA operation, which is 1.5 MHz wide... FM is 150Khz wide...

I got an original one here: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/32874446 ... hweb201603_


DutchRF shop is selling genuine 9180's / 21 Euros :https://dutchrfshop.nl/nl/hoger-dan-150 ... f9180.html
HF-electronics is selling them for 19 euros: https://www.hf-electronics.nl/MRF9180

Ordered from top link. I take it its only some of alexi express Mrf9180 that is fake?

Sent from my AMN-LX9 using Tapatalk

[BriansBrain]

So you drive the 15W board with 1W?
The amp needs 0dBm input !! 1mW not 1W

I only operate my Radio Brian 16 hrs a day

So... last night after I turned him off I went behind the RF rack to have a look

I found a 20dB BNC - BNC attenuator connected to the Tugicom TX180 1W exciter

I forgot about that

[nrgkits.nz]

Does anyone happen to have the pcb files for these amps?I know there are ones for 7£ on Ebay but that seems a bit steep when I could get 10 of them knocked out for 7£ from china.

Here are the gerber files, this is a copy I did - although its going to be far more cost effective to buy the kit-sets out of China - they're easily found on ALiExpress. I wanted to do a few mods to the design which I why I copied it.

[Bton-FM]

thankyou very much @nrgkits.nz

[nrgkits.nz]

thankyou very much @nrgkits.nz

If you take the files to a PCB manufacturer, make sure they include the outline gerber file, as this is responsible for cutting out the center (for the 9180) and also the pieces which are used on the input transformer.

Other PCB's I've designed (unrelated to amplifiers) which have different shapes etc... cut out of the PCB - these all include an Outline gerber file. I've found some manufactures don't bother to include the file when manufacturing, or I suppose just don't know what to do with it. I had a bunch of boards delivered from China once that were useless because they never cut out the custom shapes which were required to fit some of the components.

[Electronically]

Has any of you lot tried MRFX1K80H transistor?

Sent from my AMN-LX9 using Tapatalk

[Tec1 87.5fm London]

Blf188xr running at 1200w

[Electronically]

Blf188xr running at 1200w

I just read up datasheet sounds ideal.

Sent from my AMN-LX9 using Tapatalk

[Tec1 87.5fm London]

Amp

[Electronically]

Amp

Good swr. Good power. I'm going to get one .

Sent from my AMN-LX9 using Tapatalk

[rigmo]

Can anyone help me with these shit devices. They just die so easy. 1st one decided to die just 3 days later of being on, 2nd one was an NXP type, blew for some reason when I put the audio cable into the RCA socket and a third fake which was running very nice doing 150w warmish blew when I switched it off. WHAT THE ACTUAL FUCK. the amp is a nice design, the devices are shit. I run the bias around 3-3.5v and input 500mw for up to 170w out, but usually turn em down to 150.

You need look current !! no volts! 200mA i recommended ( over this can be very bad efficiency ) only produce heat ! input 1-5W need to be @ 28V 180W
And LPF need to be tuned over network Analyser if power stuck betven mosfet and lpf it will burn... mrf9180 do not like SWR

[rigmo]

IMGA0576.JPG

sir Wher you buy this board ?

[rigmo]

I've built a few boards with the MRF186 and had a nice 120-130w out of them, I've got some here with MRF9180 but I haven't tested them yet but I will post my results up here when I do.

....I am thinking it might just be easier for XXL to just replace it with one of these devices, you can buy them for only 8 quid or so (delivered) and they seem to work well, I built a TX with one in that ran @120w for 24/7 operation and lasted over 7 months until it got removed by the authorities.

how to expalin this... mrf186 150W input 3W @22V

[rigmo]

Idq of a 9180 is 1400mA

INSANE !

[rigmo]

Can anyone help me with these shit devices. They just die so easy. 1st one decided to die just 3 days later of being on, 2nd one was an NXP type, blew for some reason when I put the audio cable into the RCA socket and a third fake which was running very nice doing 150w warmish blew when I switched it off. WHAT THE ACTUAL FUCK. the amp is a nice design, the devices are shit. I run the bias around 3-3.5v and input 500mw for up to 170w out, but usually turn em down to 150.

You need look current !! no volts! 200mA i recommended ( over this can be very bad efficiency ) only produce heat ! input 1-5W need to be @ 28V 180W
And LPF need to be tuned over network Analyser if power stuck betven mosfet and lpf it will burn... mrf9180 do not like SWR

tipfeler 26V 200mA 1.5W inout 170W

[ronald001]

Idq of a 9180 is 1400mA

INSANE !

Hahaha no it's not...1400mA is recommended.
I have set Idq to 2000mA to get it in linear mode for DAB @26VDC

A low Idq is possibly the reason why it breaks so easily, you have to drive with much more power...

[rigmo]

Idq of a 9180 is 1400mA

INSANE !

Hahaha no it's not...1400mA is recommended.
I have set Idq to 2000mA to get it in linear mode for DAB @26VDC

A low Idq is possibly the reason why it breaks so easily, you have to drive with much more power...

efficiency no good !!! I told You. recommended for what ? overheting brake it hahah... 1.3W input idq 200mA 160Watt @26V... can more but need 1.5W input and TUNE the board... 180W easy,,,