Nice 2 c some1 sharing designs !

darren123 wrote:sorry if this is a dumb question here , how do I download the project, I can see the post has an attatchment but cant see how to get to it. I am presuming it contains all the diagrams and code for the pic

hello mr darren123!
if you would like to give this circuit a go? i can send you all the details you need!
the parts list ive shown did have a tiny error which was pointed out to me by others who have built this board! :/ but has been sorted now!
this board works great everytime if you follow the correct setup proceedure!
give me a shout if youre interested?

Gigahertz wrote:Nice 2 c some1 sharing designs !

Cheers Mr GigZ! i will give any assistance i can to anyone interested in building this project!

Hi sinus

Before people etch this up it might be worth adding a phase lock filter as you have the pira pll going directly to the varicaps.
If you modulate audio you might hear a high pitch noise modulating with the audio as the pll kicks in.
You only needs a few components to filter it.

Hello Mr Berlin!
An expert eye on this board would be greatly appreciated and any improvements you could bring would be a bonus?
From my amatuer point of view? its a very compact and reliable unit which has gave consistant performance everytime!
I do have a board built if you would like me to send it for testing? but im sure your technical ability would enable you to assemble and criticize yourself?

1 WATT PLL DRIVE BOARD PARTS LIST
===============================

R1 = 1K - BROWN,BLACK,RED

R2 = 4K7 - YELLOW,PURPLE,RED

R3 = 10K - BROWN,BLACK,ORANGE

R4 = 10K - BROWN,BLACK,ORANGE

R5 = 10K - BROWN,BLACK,ORANGE

R6 = 1K (FOR PIC LOCK STATE AND NOT NEEDED)

R7 = 10K - BROWN,BLACK,ORANGE

R8 = 6K8 - BLUE,GREY,RED

R9 = 6K8 - BLUE,GREY,RED

R10 = 33K - ORANGE,ORANGE,ORANGE

R11 = 82K - GREY,RED,ORANGE

R12 = 56 - GREEN,BLUE,BLACK

R13 = 56 - GREEN,BLUE,BLACK

R14 =82K - GREY,RED,ORANGE

R15 = 220 - RED,RED,BROWN

R16 = 47 - YELLOW,PURPLE,BLACK

R17 = 5K - GREEN,BLACK,RED


C1 = 2.2NF - 222 CERAMIC

C2 = 10NF - 103 CERAMIC

C3 = 47UF - ELECTROLYTIC

C4 = 10UF - TANTALUM

C5 = 0.47UF - ELECTROLYTIC

C6 = 100NF - 104 CERAMIC

C7 = 1NF - 102 CERAMIC

C8 = 220UF - ELECTROLYTIC

C9 = 10NF - 103 CERAMIC

C10 = 22PF - 22 CERAMIC

C11 = 100NF - 104 CERAMIC

C12 = 2.2NF - 222 CERAMIC

C13 = 47PF - 47 CERAMIC

C14 = 22PF - 22 CERAMIC

C15 = 33PF - 33 CERAMIC

C16 = 33PF - 33 CERAMIC

C17 = 1NF - 102 CERAMIC

C18 = 1NF - 102 CERAMIC

C19 = 1NF - 102 CERAMIC

C20 = 10NF - 103 CERAMIC

C21 = 1NF - 102 CERAMIC

C22 = 22PF - 22 CERAMIC

C23 = 1NF - 102 CERAMIC

C24 = 220UF - ELECTROLYTIC

C25 = 100PF - 101 CERAMIC

C26 = 10PF - 10 CERAMIC

C27 = 10UF - ELECTROLYTIC (CHANGED TO 0.47UF FOR PLL STABILITY)

VC1 = PURPLE TRIMMER

VC2 = YELLOW TRIMMER

VC3 = YELLOW TRIMMER

VC4 = YELLOW TRIMMER

IC1 = SAA1057

IC2 = PIC16F84

IC3 = 78L05

TR1 = BF199

TR2 = BF199

TR3 = 2N4427

D1 = 1N4001

VCD = MV104 VARICAP DIODE

L1 = 6X 2 TURN 5MM INT DIA

L2 = 4 TURN 6.2MM INT DIA

L3 = U SHAPE LINK (NOT USED)

L4 = 12 TURN ENAMEL COIL 4MM INT DIA

L5 = 5 TURN 5MM INT DIA

J1 = WIRE LINK

J2 = WIRE LINK

J3 = WIRE LINK

J4 = WIRE LINK (NOT USED)

J5 = WIRE LINK (NOT USED)

X1 = 4.00MHZ CRYSTAL

New parts list above!
New PCB To follow!

Nice work, Sinus.

Would love to build this project to pass some time, so does anyone have the equipment to make me a PCB for a fee?

oi oi sinus...

Mate add a pll filter otherwise you will hear high pitch noise when low bass kicks in as the pll tries to pull it back on frequency.

From the saa1057 output go through a 10k resistor (you already have it R3), then take a 220nf to ground, from there go through a 22k resistor, then take a 100n to ground, then go through 100k resistor into your varicap circuit (this would be R8). That filter works a dream with the saa1057, you cant hear a thing.


Also another massive improvment would be to seperate your varicap circuit. you dont need any extra varicaps to do this. so you have a set voltage going to one varicap and yout modulate the audio onto it, then on the other varicap you swing the voltage up and down to tune the oscillator.
The way you are doing it there, if you have say 3v lock voltage and you modulate the audio onto it that way you are doing it the audio will sound a lot lot louder than if you have say a 7v lock volatge. The higher the voltage you modulate onto the quieter it will sound. I can draw up the mods for you if you like

Nice one Mr Berlin!
Any improvements are welcome! and yes you are spot on with the tuning voltage affecting the audio performance! the audio does degrade above 3v! i try to stay within 4v max when setting up!
Excuse Me for being a dummy! but im not sure what you mean by seperating the varicap side??
Im using an MV104 dual varicap for both tuning and modulation!
Im sure any schematics or mods you could post would nudge my brain in the right direction!

Hi Sinus! Nice to see you're still working on this. About pll, you could go with TSA5511. There are designs on the internet with dip switches and this chip has lock detect with nice latency to prevent flickering. Also it is not so obsolete like SAA1057.
About modulation, I agree with radio-berlin, modulating signal should be separated from tuning. This cannot be done with one dual varicap. You should add another one, and set fixed voltage on that one somewhere in linear region of diode (i usually use 8v). It will give you plenty of room for audio to modulate undistorted and more even audio across the band.
If you need sketch how to do this, i'll draw you one.
Cheers!

Here u go, not the best, values ball park figures..

once you get familiar with the above circuit you can then start playing with it to make it sound better etc depending on what varicaps you use, some dont have a linear swing of capicatance compared to volatge. You can add caps either side of the varicaps to adjust the overall swing of capicitance in the tank circuit (remember to use a resistor across the varicap if you put capacitors either side of it, the resistor gives it a path to ground).. A lot to take it if you are learning but have a play.

To much swing can cause problems and hiss, low frequencies etc..

I would just suggest using dual varicaps instead of varicap-capacitor combination. It gets more linear response. If you lack in capacity (tuning too high), you can add capacitor across tuning cap as mr berlin suggested

Very true... I was thinking of cost and availabilty though

Regarding availability, you can use 4 regular varicaps. Regarding price, it doubles (for diodes only), but it is few cents more. I bought bb809 (i think) from ebay and 100 pieces pack was like 6£

must have been a long time ago

Decent through hole varicaps are getting hard to get hold.

BB809's are selling for £1 each here in the UK. Its silly money!
However you can get BB910's cheap from china, not sure what the swing is off top of my head but ive used them before.