Re: RE: Re: Mrf9180 Keeps blowing!!
Posted: Mon Apr 13, 2020 12:32 am
OK but some of these fake ones don't give out full power.Electronically wrote: ↑Sun Apr 12, 2020 10:23 pm If there fake and work it does the job. It's just basically a copy of the original.
I replaced the MRF9180 with a genuine one in November 2019, it's been running at 26V @ 8A for 16hrs a day at a reasonable temperature ever since.Electronically wrote: ↑Sun Apr 12, 2020 10:23 pm Reason these copy's or originals don't last long is because most folk crank up the Volts to make it go at boiling point.
Brian I don't believe you have been running these 16 hours a dayBriansBrain wrote:OK but some of these fake ones don't give out full power.Electronically wrote: ↑Sun Apr 12, 2020 10:23 pm If there fake and work it does the job. It's just basically a copy of the original.
I got these 3 from Aliexpress @ €9.19 each - Seller: AIICKING Store
They only produced 20W RF output. My Pic
Another Aliexpress buyer had the same problem. Note the production number under MRF9180 are the same > RR1627E
So... these are definitely a bad batch![]()
I replaced the MRF9180 with a genuine one in November 2019, it's been running at 26V @ 8A for 16hrs a day at a reasonable temperature ever since.Electronically wrote: ↑Sun Apr 12, 2020 10:23 pm Reason these copy's or originals don't last long is because most folk crank up the Volts to make it go at boiling point.
Actually it's 16 hours and +/- 15 minutes a dayElectronically wrote: ↑Mon Apr 13, 2020 3:14 pm Brian I don't believe you have been running these 16 hours a day
Nah... but I don't set the bias using a Voltage reading
I have actually set mine to a quiescent board current for a total of around 225mA When Cold +/- 21C°If your board has a pre set pot to adjust the quiescent current then connect the supply voltage
Under no RF drive conditions adjust the drain quiescent current for a total of around 300mA.
This device is a dual FET so 150mA per drain.
This is a good starting point for class B biasing and depending on your input drive and how it is coupled
to the gate you will need to experiment with the bias current, i wouldn't go much over 400mA total though.
Connect your power meter in line with a well matched load and you are looking for a max power of around
180W, I wouldn't go much above that as the class B biasing will return an efficiency of around 78%.
Don't try and push the device for maximum ratings.
If you are trying to squeeze 200W from the device then any miss-matches could send the device over the edge.
Hope this is of help mate but there is no one answer, it always involved a little experimentation.
Brian see all those transistors you've shown.my question is why have you got 3 genuine chips that you have used are they all blown? .BriansBrain wrote:OK but some of these fake ones don't give out full power.Electronically wrote: ↑Sun Apr 12, 2020 10:23 pm If there fake and work it does the job. It's just basically a copy of the original.
I got these 3 from Aliexpress @ €9.19 each - Seller: AIICKING Store
They only produced 20W RF output. My Pic
Another Aliexpress buyer had the same problem. Note the production number under MRF9180 are the same > RR1627E
So... these are definitely a bad batch![]()
I replaced the MRF9180 with a genuine one in November 2019, it's been running at 26V @ 8A for 16hrs a day at a reasonable temperature ever since.Electronically wrote: ↑Sun Apr 12, 2020 10:23 pm Reason these copy's or originals don't last long is because most folk crank up the Volts to make it go at boiling point.
The one in the pics are not genuine chipsElectronically wrote: ↑Mon Apr 13, 2020 7:48 pm Brian see all those transistors you've shown.my question is why have you got 3 genuine chips that you have used are they all blown? .
Lol I was tricking you to see if you would slip up with the fake to genuine ones. OK so it's official they Aliexpress chips are only doing 20 Watts. I've never tried Aliexpress chips to be honest.BriansBrain wrote:The one in the pics are not genuine chipsElectronically wrote: ↑Mon Apr 13, 2020 7:48 pm Brian see all those transistors you've shown.my question is why have you got 3 genuine chips that you have used are they all blown? .![]()
Those three in the picture I got from Aliexpress @ €9.19 each - Seller: AIICKING Store
That only produced 20W RF output are obviously Fakes... and bad ones at that
They are not blown just useless at only 20W output![]()
Look here >>> viewtopic.php?f=11&t=2373
Albert your absolutely correct on this 21volts is best. Any higher it will damage.Albert H wrote:MRF9180 is best (in the boards I've used) at 21V with just over 2.2W of drive for 135 Watts out. Efficiency is in the 70% - 75% range. IIn the early days, I steamed a couple of them to over 200 Watts, but they died pretty quickly (despite being genuine ones). I messed with them a lot in the Chinese cheap boards and found the 21V / 135W to be about the most reliable point.
The MRF186 is OK at 90 Watts into a horrible load (a blown-down aerial!).
Maybe he has changed it to the RD06HVF1.RF-Head wrote: ↑Tue Apr 14, 2020 8:32 am First the driver that you use ia not stable and can easy generate spurr and only working "clean"on full power
This little amp will produce 15W if you only put your finger in the input of the amp
Maybe this is the problem
i have had many 9180 on the workbench and all working day after day
Also a other thing can be static from you antenna...
Why not buying a good amp and stay away of the china boards?
I see that you use the 15W driver but what is your output of the PLL osc?
BriansBrain wrote: ↑Mon Apr 13, 2020 6:15 pmNah... but I don't set the bias using a Voltage reading![]()
I was given instructions from an old friend of mine that was big in the pirate radio game in Merseyside back in the 80's![]()
This is what he told me...I have actually set mine to a quiescent board current for a total of around 225mA When Cold +/- 21C°If your board has a pre set pot to adjust the quiescent current then connect the supply voltage
Under no RF drive conditions adjust the drain quiescent current for a total of around 300mA.
This device is a dual FET so 150mA per drain.
This is a good starting point for class B biasing and depending on your input drive and how it is coupled
to the gate you will need to experiment with the bias current, i wouldn't go much over 400mA total though.
As I have found when the MRF9180 is HOT the quiescent board current without ant RF drive is around 400mA
He also told me, if it says 26V Max on the data sheet then it will be OK at 26V
![]()
could be to do with the ft of 880Mhzronald001 wrote: ↑Tue Apr 14, 2020 11:17 amBriansBrain wrote: ↑Mon Apr 13, 2020 6:15 pmNah... but I don't set the bias using a Voltage reading![]()
I was given instructions from an old friend of mine that was big in the pirate radio game in Merseyside back in the 80's![]()
This is what he told me...I have actually set mine to a quiescent board current for a total of around 225mA When Cold +/- 21C°If your board has a pre set pot to adjust the quiescent current then connect the supply voltage
Under no RF drive conditions adjust the drain quiescent current for a total of around 300mA.
This device is a dual FET so 150mA per drain.
This is a good starting point for class B biasing and depending on your input drive and how it is coupled
to the gate you will need to experiment with the bias current, i wouldn't go much over 400mA total though.
As I have found when the MRF9180 is HOT the quiescent board current without ant RF drive is around 400mA
He also told me, if it says 26V Max on the data sheet then it will be OK at 26V
![]()
Idq of a 9180 is 1400mA
![]()
Well I use that board because of the variable RF output, it is stable, and does not produce spurr at low powerRF-Head wrote: ↑Tue Apr 14, 2020 8:32 am First the driver that you use ia not stable and can easy generate spurr and only working "clean"on full power
This little amp will produce 15W if you only put your finger in the input of the amp
Maybe this is the problem
i have had many 9180 on the workbench and all working day after day
Also a other thing can be static from you antenna...
Why not buying a good amp and stay away of the china boards?
I see that you use the 15W driver but what is your output of the PLL osc?
Nope I use Genuine RD15HVF1 and I have not had any problems with it.teckniqs wrote: ↑Tue Apr 14, 2020 10:35 amMaybe he has changed it to the RD06HVF1.RF-Head wrote: ↑Tue Apr 14, 2020 8:32 am First the driver that you use ia not stable and can easy generate spurr and only working "clean"on full power
This little amp will produce 15W if you only put your finger in the input of the amp
Maybe this is the problem
i have had many 9180 on the workbench and all working day after day
Also a other thing can be static from you antenna...
Why not buying a good amp and stay away of the china boards?
I see that you use the 15W driver but what is your output of the PLL osc?