Here is my version of the NRG/PIRA drive board! if built correctly? the stability is excellent!
The PCB dimentions are 146mm x 60mm! if anyone has any questions please dont hesitate to ask!
Happy building and good luck!!
1 WATT PLL DRIVE BOARD PARTS LIST
===============================

R1 = 1K - BROWN,BLACK,RED

R2 = YELLOW,PURPLE,RED

R3 = 10K - BROWN,BLACK,ORANGE

R4 = 10K - BROWN,BLACK,ORANGE

R5 = 10K - BROWN,BLACK,ORANGE

R6 = 1K (FOR PIC LOCK STATE AND NOT NEEDED)

R7 = 10K - BROWN,BLACK,ORANGE

R8 = 6K8 - BLUE,GREY,RED

R9 = 6K8 - BLUE,GREY,RED

R10 = 33K - ORANGE,ORANGE,ORANGE

R11 = 82K - GREY,RED,ORANGE

R12 = 56 - GREEN,BLUE,BLACK

R13 = 56 - GREEN,BLUE,BLACK

R14 =82K - GREY,RED,ORANGE

R15 = 220 - RED,RED,BROWN

R16 = 47 - YELLOW,PURPLE,BLACK

R17 = 5K - GREEN,BLACK,RED


C1 = 222 CERAMIC

C2 = 103 CERAMIC

C3 = 47UF ELECTROLYTIC

C4 = 10UF TANTALUM

C5 = 0.47UF ELECTROLYTIC

C6 = 104 CERAMIC

C7 = 102 CERAMIC

C8 = 220UF ELECTROLYTIC

C9 = 103 CERAMIC

C10 = 22 CERAMIC

C11 = 104 CERAMIC

C12 = 222 CERAMIC

C13 = 47 CERAMIC (CHANGED TO 33 CERAMIC FOR FULL TUNING RANGE)

C14 = 22 CERAMIC

C15 = 33 CERAMIC

C16 = 33 CERAMIC

C17 = 102 CERAMIC

C18 = 102 CERAMIC

C19 = 1NF 102 CERAMIC

C20 = 10NF 103 CERAMIC

C21 = 220UF ELECTROLYTIC

C22 = 22 CERAMIC

C23 = 102 CERAMIC

C24 = 102 CERAMIC

C25 = 101 CERAMIC

C26 = 10 CERAMIC

C27 = 10UF ELECTROLYTIC (CHANGED TO 0.47UF FOR PLL STABILITY)

VC1 = PURPLE TRIMMER

VC2 = YELLOW TRIMMER

VC3 = YELLOW TRIMMER

VC4 = YELLOW TRIMMER

IC1 = SAA1057

IC2 = PIC16F84

IC3 = 78L05

TR1 = BF199

TR2 = BF199

TR3 = 2N4427

D1 = 1N4001

L1 = 6X 2 TURN 5MM INT DIA

L2 = 4 TURN 6.2MM INT DIA

L3 = U SHAPE LINK (NOT USED)

L4 = 12 TURN ENAMEL COIL 4MM INT DIA

L5 = 5 TURN 5MM INT DIA

J1 = WIRE LINK

J2 = WIRE LINK

J3 = WIRE LINK

J4 = WIRE LINK (NOT USED)

J5 = WIRE LINK (NOT USED)

Nice work and thanks for sharing.

What do you predict the component / build cost is of the above? Out of interest really.

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£20 or less. Depends where you get the components from, and what you already have at hand.

Yeah it doesn't cost much for the parts, you also need the basic stuff to build the PCB's but again that's not expensive.

Most expensive parts would be 2n4427 and saa1057. But total cost must be under 20£... with homemade board ofcourse

Yeah id say around 20 quid! Dutch RF shop have all the parts needed at a good price!
It actually takes more time and skills than money to build! its not complicated but you need to take into account
that the PIC needs to be programmed and the PCB needs to be processed!
Tuning and setup is simple too!
Firstly DIP switch is set to required frequency!
Then VC1 is trimmed until chosen frequecy is reached!
PLL tuning voltage can be monitored via R8 using a multimeter! (between 3 and 4 volts is best)
Finaly tune VC2,3 and 4 for maximum forward power using a SWR meter!
Sorted!!

Oh and the parts list is accurate but i did forget a thing or two!

X1 = 4Mhz crystal

FB1 = 5 turns on a 4mm ferrite bead

And J4 is used on this version of the board!

This is what it should look like

Just to add, one of caps on 4MHz crystal could be changed with small 40pF trimmer to set reference frequency. With good frequency meter, you can set carrier to be in fm standard range of +-500Hz from nominal frequency

Sinus, did you find they work better using the double sided board?

sinus trouble wrote:And J4 is used on this version of the board!

I think you are using J5 as well, otherwise you wouldn't have any power to the 5V regulator.

teckniqs wrote:Sinus, did you find they work better using the double sided board?

Erm? Not really a huge difference with double sided? Had a very small increase in output power and a little less noise on the PLL too!
Harmonics could possibly be suppressed more with the double sided? But that hasnt been tested?

I've always prefer double sided and seen a few PLL's that definitely prefer being on it. Your double sided job looks neat and another job well done.

....I'm surprised NRG didn't sell something like this!

Dai Pole wrote:

sinus trouble wrote:And J4 is used on this version of the board!

I think you are using J5 as well, otherwise you wouldn't have any power to the 5V regulator.

Sorry Dai! the layout diagram is from the first version i made and has not been updated!
The PCB has had some modifications (PLL moved inline with the VFO and some links removed) but the components are unchanged!

sinus trouble wrote:

Dai Pole wrote:

sinus trouble wrote:And J4 is used on this version of the board!

I think you are using J5 as well, otherwise you wouldn't have any power to the 5V regulator.

Sorry Dai! the layout diagram is from the first version i made and has not been updated!

Actually mate, I should apologise, I had already seen that you altered it on your PCB artwork, but was referring to the layout picture whilst working in Eagle and it slipped my mind - my mistake!

teckniqs wrote:I've always prefer double sided and seen a few PLL's that definitely prefer being on it. Your double sided job looks neat and another job well done.

....I'm surprised NRG didn't sell something like this!

Cheers geez! i agree! double sided defo has its benefits and its worth the little extra effort!
I think with NRG they were oldskool and always seemed to avoid using PICs! i even noticed when reading alberts old posts! He didnt seem to be fan of the PIC approach either? even though he is probly well clued up on them?

Lol no worries Dai!! I do seriously need to update it though! its pretty poor by todays standards! lol

Doing RF = Using double sided PCB

sorry if this is a dumb question here , how do I download the project, I can see the post has an attatchment but cant see how to get to it. I am presuming it contains all the diagrams and code for the pic